Macho Man Finds Darkest Spot In Road

Armed with nothing except the pithy beam of a dying headlamp, ill-fitting cheap plastic flip-flops and the will to NOT pay for a taxi cab, Matt and I tromp unwittingly into danger in the complete darkness on the road leading out of Santa Teresa in hopes of finding Shangri-La. We heard that the hot springs on the edge of town were amazing . . . and open late . . . and sparsely populated after the 8 o´clock […]

Peru Will NOT Protect You From Yourself

Peru will NOT protect you from yourself . . . it´s kind of refreshing actually.

For instance – walking down the street can be hazardous. That is, if you don´t pay attention. On just about every city block there are great big gaping holes in the sidewalk from where someone has stolen a manhole cover or a utility panel. Sometimes these holes are a few inches deep and full of trash. Sometimes they are a few feet deep. […]

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Nazca Kinda Blows (In My Opinion)

Maybe it was because the night we arrived, I had a terrible dream involving an ex-boyfriend following me to the Nazca Lines. Maybe it was because I didn´t feel safe in the hostel. Or maybe it was because the place was sad and depressing. Eh, the Tiger Milk (ceviche) was good. Someone told us it was tourist week (yippee!) and made promises of dancing horses in the streets. I saw NO dancing horses . . . but there were lots of […]

Santa Teresa – The Backpacker BoomTown

Up until about a year ago, although close to Machu Picchu, the town of Santa Teresa had no viable access to the most famous ruins the country of Peru has to offer. The only point to cross the raging, rock-filled and wild Urubamba River was a rickety wire basket and steel line contraption that few would dare to try.

About a year ago, the bridge was completed and as a result, Santa Teresa has become a […]

Robbed – Of Lomo & A Backpack, Too!

I wanted Lomo Saltado for breakfast.

We went into a restaurant near the square in Arequipa with a sign that said it was their house breakfast special. We ordered. She said she didn´t have it. Robbed, I say! Robbed of my Lomo . . . we settled on the grilled chicken. It just wasn´t the same.

We wandered into an antique shop because it looked cool . . . Matt sat his backpack down and then walked around […]

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Quillabamba, Town of Eternal Summer

 . . . and make no mistake, as the people of Quillabamba will tell you repeatedly, this town certainly is not Cusco!

We left the tourist-frequented area of Cusco and the Sacred Valley, only to discover a remote and wonderful area of Peru, where, for three days, we did not see any other gringos. Not one! It was kind of exciting.

They really like ice cream. A lot. The town motto is, “Town of eternal summer.” They’re […]

Puppies, Comfort and Giving Birth On Top Of A Fourteen Thousand Foot Apu

Let me recommend Ampay bus line for all of the above.

We hop onto the afternoon bus bound for Quillabamba and I am impressed. This bus is a Mercedes-Benz with freshly ironed curtains lining the windows. The entire bus has a crisp appearance, every surface has clean edges that don’t seem to be worn down with years, grime and abuse. But the best features are the padded, plastic covered leg rests. Ah, luxury! We recline our […]

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Dante’s Disco Inferno Taxi

It is 9:30 AM, and we just finished buying bus tickets. We want to get a cab to downtown Cusco, get some lunch, go to the bank and then return to this bus station on the outskirts of town just in time to hop on the afternoon bus bound for Quillabamba. That’s when we see him . . . well, to be more correct, we hear the thumping . . .

Across the street sits a […]

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No, Nadie!

By the time we arrive in Paucartambo it is nearing midnight. We just want to find a hostel and get the skinny on how to get to Tres Cruces, the place with the amazing sunrises.

We find a hostel/hair cutting place. There are actually still wet hair cuttings on the floor of the entryway. We explain to the clerk/hairstylist that we want to go to Tres Cruces to see the sunrise. She looks at us sort […]

Close The Windows!

Matt is a big sweaty guy. When he rides in a cramped bus, he likes to feel the air from an open window. The only problem is that Peruvians often insist that people close the windows while riding through the high cliffs of the countryside.

We found out that this is because of local superstition regarding the mountains, or apus. Each mountain has it’s own apu, or mountain spirit, each one sacred and each one considered […]

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